BOOK REVIEW – Ingenue to Icon

Ingenue to Icon70 Years of Fashion from the Collection of Marjorie Merriweather Post

Howard Vincent Kurtz. Edited by Trish Donnally. Introduction by Nancy Rubin Stuart

9781907804403 Published by GILES in association with Hillwood Museum and Gardens Foundation, Washington, DC

PRICE — UK£29.95/US$45.00

ISBN — 978-1-907804-40-3

 

This book takes us on a fascinating journey through Mrs Post’s life as a philanthropist, art collector and a director of General Foods.  It is told over a seventy year span by her clothes and accessories, including shoes, fans, handbags and parasols.  Many of her clothes were especially chosen to complement her magnificent collection of jewellery.

Marjorie Merriweather Post Davies in the Russian Room at Tregaron, Washington DC, c1950 Yousuf Karsh

Marjorie Merriweather Post Davies in the Russian Room at Tregaron, Washington DC, c1950
Yousuf Karsh

She had a distinctive style and this was created for her by both American and European designers. The book is lavishly illustrated throughout with not only images of the costumes but also of Mrs Post wearing them.  She is caught either by the camera or on canvas by leading exponents of these disciplines such as Yousuf Karsh and Frank O. Salisbury.  It is a celebration of both personal style and the changing world of fashion and is a must-have volume for those interested in fashion and social history or indeed in Mrs Post herself.

Marjorie Merriweather Post 1905

Marjorie Merriweather Post 1905

This book accompanies the major exhibition Ingenue to Icon: 70 Years of Fashion from the Collection of Marjorie Merriweather Post, Hillwood Museum & Gardens, Washington, DC, until 17th January 2016

Marjorie Merriweather Post at the Saratoga Races, 1930

Marjorie Merriweather Post at the Saratoga Races, 1930

gilesltd.com

Marjorie Merriweather Post in 1928

Marjorie Merriweather Post in 1928

 hillwoodmuseum.org

Portrait of Mrs. Post (Davies), 1952, By Douglas Chandor

Portrait of Mrs. Post (Davies), 1952, By Douglas Chandor

 

Mrs Post's Closet in her bedroom suite at Hillwood.

Mrs Post’s Closet in her bedroom suite at Hillwood.

A 30th Birthday!

The Decorative Antiques and Textiles Fair, Battersea Evolution, Battersea Park, London SW11, 29th September – 4th October 2015

The Moderns Sculptural Italian 1950's Book Case and Sideboard by Vittorio Dassi

The Moderns
Sculptural Italian 1950’s Book Case and Sideboard by Vittorio Dassi

It is hard to believe that these highly popular Fairs celebrate their thirtieth birthday with this Autumn edition.  One can understand why old and new customers are attracted to the more than one hundred and forty five exhibitors, drawn from the UK and Europe, as many display their pieces in room-like settings.  The wide-ranging choice of items dates from the 17th century to the present so there is surely something for everyone?

Santiago Ventura Real Rare George III silk-work panel, after a watercolour painting by Julius Ceasar Ibbetson, titled Skaters on the Serpentine, Hyde Park, circa 1790.

Santiago Ventura Real
Rare George III silk-work panel, after a watercolour painting by Julius Ceasar Ibbetson, titled Skaters on the Serpentine, Hyde Park, circa 1790.

 

http://www.decorativefair.com

Luke Honey A Fine Staunton ivory "Club" Chess Set by Jaques & Son, London, circa 1900-1910

Luke Honey
A Fine Staunton ivory “Club” Chess Set by Jaques & Son, London, circa 1900-1910

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Trivette Silver and gold tiara c.1880 with natural pearls and diamonds, with original box.

Trivette
Silver and gold tiara c.1880 with natural pearls and diamonds, with original box.

 

Kate Thurlow Late 16th Century Italian Giltwood Reliquary Box

Kate Thurlow
Late 16th Century Italian Giltwood Reliquary Box

 

SAC & Co Ltd Sir Noel Coward 1899–1973 "Off-shore, Shoreham" signed oil on canvass board 23cm x 31.5cm Painted c1950.

SAC & Co Ltd
Sir Noel Coward 1899–1973
“Off-shore, Shoreham” signed oil on canvass board 23cm x 31.5cm Painted c1950.

Tom Hammick at Flowers

Tom Hammick – Wall, Window, World, Flowers Gallery · 82 Kingsland Rd · London, E2, until 10th October 2015

Tom Hammick,  Violetta and Alfredo's Retreat, 2015,  Oil on Linen,  (c) Tom Hammick, Courtesy of Flowers Gallery London and New York

Tom Hammick,
Violetta and Alfredo’s Retreat, 2015,
Oil on Linen,
(c) Tom Hammick, Courtesy of Flowers Gallery London and New York

Hammick’s paintings are quite engrossing in that they immediately draw the viewer into the slightly mysterious worlds he has created and make you want to understand what may be going on.  Paintings, figures and buildings feature and whether they be in the paintings and prints inspired by his recent year-long spell as Artist in Residence at the ENO, or the natural or urban landscapes you get a feeling of edginess of the unknown and even isolation.

Tom Hammick,  Walther von Stolzing’s New Suit, 2015,  Oil on canvas,  (c) Tom Hammick, Courtesy of Flowers Gallery London and New York

Tom Hammick,
Walther von Stolzing’s New Suit, 2015,
Oil on canvas,
(c) Tom Hammick, Courtesy of Flowers Gallery London and New York

At the same time as this memorable show a new book by Julian Bell Tom Hammick: Wall, Window, World is published by Lund Humphries. It is a welcome survey and examination of his work to date.

TH_CoverLR-res

 

www.flowersgallery.com

John Donald

Goldsmiths’ Fair II, Goldsmiths’ Hall, Foster Lane, London EC2, 22nd September – 4th October 2015

Book Cover John Donald

The jewellery of noted designer-maker John Donald (a Liveryman of the Goldsmiths’ Company) is the subject of a special exhibition at the Fair and it coincides with the October publication of his autobiography Precious Statements (McNidder & Grace).  Some twenty-four of his innovative designs, dating between 1958 and 2002, will be on show.

John Donald and HRH Princess Margaret at the opening of the Tecla Pearls exhibition in Bond Street, where HRH Princess Margaret was presented with a gold brooch set with pearls and diamonds. 1970

John Donald and HRH Princess Margaret at the opening of the Tecla Pearls exhibition in Bond Street, where HRH Princess Margaret was presented with a gold brooch set with pearls and diamonds. 1970

HRH Princess Margaret was one of his patrons, no doubt attracted by his use of textured gold and silver for his sculptural forms.  His use of uncut stones was another of his successful ideas as it allowed the natural qualities of the stones to come to the fore.

18ct yellow gold nugget flakes in cornucopia brooch set natural wild pearls from the river Tay in Scotland. 1966

18ct yellow gold nugget flakes in cornucopia brooch set natural wild pearls from the river Tay in Scotland. 1966

 

Part One: 22nd– 27th September 2015
Part Two: 29th September-4th October 2015

Bracelet of nugget flake set turquoise and pearls. Necklace of sections of round tubes with melted sheet edge, oval centrepiece set pearls and turquoise bead. 1970

Bracelet of nugget flake set turquoise and pearls. Necklace of sections of round tubes with melted sheet edge, oval centrepiece set pearls and turquoise bead. 1970

 

 

 

www.goldsmithsfair.co.uk

 

Brooch of 18ct yellow gold radiating square tubes covered with granulation and set with natural crystal of amethyst 1963

Brooch of 18ct yellow gold radiating square tubes covered with granulation and set with natural crystal of amethyst 1963

Gold, Silver and Gemstones

Goldsmiths’ Fair I, Goldsmiths’ Hall, Foster Lane, London EC2, 22nd September – 4th October 2015

This is a truly exciting annual fair that shows the very best of contemporary jewellery and precious metalwork in both design and execution  This year the Serpentine Gallery’s director Julia Peyton-Jones is the curator of a specially chosen group of jewellery and silver pieces.

Julia Peyton-Jones Selects - Ute Decker – Curl – sculptural ring & pendant in 18ct Fairtrade gold Image © The Goldsmiths’ Company. Photography by Richard Valencia

Julia Peyton-Jones Selects – Ute Decker – Curl – sculptural ring & pendant in 18ct Fairtrade gold
Image © The Goldsmiths’ Company. Photography by Richard Valencia

 

Here is a small selection of what you may also find:

 

“Quatrefoil" Fountain Pen – Rose gold, sterling silver, diamond and sapphire. Jack Row (Part One)

“Quatrefoil” Fountain Pen – Rose gold, sterling silver, diamond and sapphire.
Jack Row
(Part One)

 

Reversible Drinking Set, 2014, Sterling Silver, Enamel, Gold plated Kyosun Jung (Part One) Photo by Richard Valencia

Reversible Drinking Set, 2014, Sterling Silver, Enamel, Gold plated
Kyosun Jung
(Part One)
Photo by Richard Valencia

 

 Earrings with black diamonds SARAH HERRIOT DESIGN (Part One)

Earrings with black diamonds
SARAH HERRIOT DESIGN
(Part One)

Part One: 22-27 September 2015
Part Two: 29 September-4 October 2015

 

www.goldsmithsfair.co.uk

LAPADA in London’s Berkeley Square

LAPADA Art & Antiques Fair, Berkeley Square, London W1, 22nd-27th September 2015

Maritime Antiques and Paraphernalia, from Anderson Wallrock

Maritime Antiques and Paraphernalia,
from Anderson Wallrock

Few would contradict the fact that since its inception in 2009 this Fair has grown into one that attracts both first-time buyers and established collectors to see the wide-ranging spectrum of antiques, art and design that are shown by the hundred and eight exhibitors taking part.

Malcolm Liepke, Turned Back, oil on canvas, 41x30cm, from Albemarle Gallery

Malcolm Liepke, Turned Back, oil on canvas, 41x30cm,
from Albemarle Gallery

Prices range from £500 upwards and one can buy confidently as all items are pre-vetted by a 70-member specialist vetting team.  Illustrated here is a small selection of the delights that await you.

A pair of oak arts and crafts back stools, England, c. 1870, from Thomas Woodham Smith

A pair of oak arts and crafts back stools, England, c. 1870,
from Thomas Woodham Smith

http://www.lapadalondon.com

Mrs Anne Mee, A young girl, possibly the artist's own child, watercolour on ivory, from Ellison Fine Arts

Mrs Anne Mee, A young girl, possibly the artist’s own child, watercolour on ivory,
from Ellison Fine Arts

 

Embroidery Redwork Panel, early 17th century, from Witney Antiques

Embroidery Redwork Panel, early 17th century,
from Witney Antiques

 

A beautiful and very rare example of mid-1930s gentleman's vintage Rolex, from Anthony Green Antiques

A beautiful and very rare example of mid-1930s gentleman’s vintage Rolex,
from Anthony Green Antiques

Smart Interiors

Decorex International, Syon Park, West London TW8, 20th– 23rd September 2015

 

Chesney's Roxburgh Adam Fireplace

Chesney’s Roxburgh Adam Fireplace

There is little wonder why this show, which is part of the London Design Festival 2015, is so popular and is in its thirty-eighth year.  It is the only one of this kind in the UK that caters for the luxury interiors market and there are nearly four hundred exhibitors taking part. I thought that I would mention these two rather special ones.

The Odd Chair Company - Soane chair

The Odd Chair Company – Soane chair

The first is luxury furniture inspired by the works of the celebrated 18th century neo-classical architects Robert and James Adam which is being shown by the Sir John Soane Museum.  This is a fitting new development as the Museum holds over eight thousand Adam drawings and the exciting range will include chairs, chimneypieces, lights, murals, wallpaper, stands and plinths. This introductory display is curated by the famous interior designer David Mlinaric and the decorative arts expert Joanna Bird (www.inspiredbysoane.com ). Don’t forget the Adam interiors of nearby Syon Park House.

Surface View Mural of an Adam drawing

Surface View Mural of an Adam drawing

 

Multi articulated white pot by Carina Ciscato 36cm long x 20cmhigh x 12cm deep Porcelain/thrown and assembled.

Multi articulated white pot by Carina Ciscato
36cm long x 20cmhigh x 12cm deep
Porcelain/thrown and assembled.

One of the great exhibits at last year’s Decorex was the new Future Heritage feature celebrating the best of collectable British craft and I am truly delighted that it returns this year.  It is best summed up by its curator Corinne Julius who says “The inaugural Future Heritage at Decorex 2014 proved to be extremely popular with visitors and successful for the makers. I am so excited to be curating Future Heritage that will once again showcase the works of some of the country’s most inspiring makers, designers and artists. I am thrilled to be able to show their work and introduce them to Decorex visitors. I can only hope that they find them as stimulating and inspiring as I do.”

BLOW Spoons by David Clarke Pewter and Silver Plated Nickel Silver Made 2015 Dimensions Approx 14cm x 12cm x 10cm

BLOW Spoons by David Clarke
Pewter and Silver Plated Nickel Silver
Made 2015
Dimensions Approx 14cm x 12cm x 10cm

http://www.decorex.com

Carved and textured Hollow Forms by Eleanor Lakelin. Sandblasted, scorched and ebonised Ash and Sycamore. Largest 42 cm x 42 cm x 13 cm. 2015

Carved and textured Hollow Forms by Eleanor Lakelin.
Sandblasted, scorched and ebonised Ash and Sycamore. Largest 42 cm x 42 cm x 13 cm. 2015

Celebrating Design in London

LONDON DESIGN FESTIVAL 2015, 19th-27th September 2015

‘A Bullet From A Shooting Star’ by Alex Chinneck supported by Knight Dragon, image courtesy of the London Design Festival

‘A Bullet From A Shooting Star’ by Alex Chinneck supported by Knight Dragon,
image courtesy of the London Design Festival

This promises to be a great week celebrating design from the UK and around the world in various areas of London.  The seven official areas are: Chelsea Design Quarter, Clerkenwell Design Quarter, Islington Design District, Shoreditch Design Triangle, Brompton Design District, Queens Park Design District and the new Bankside Design District, Bankside, which includes Southwark, Waterloo and Borough.

Alex Rasmussen 10 Designers in the West Wing Somerset House

Alex Rasmussen
10 Designers in the West Wing
Somerset House

Somerset House is an important destination too during this week as the Director of the Somerset House, Jonathan Reekie CBE explains: “Somerset House embraces a broad range of cultural activity including music, fashion, film and photography and design is a very important part of this mix. As well as being both a stimulating environment in which many designers and makers work we also are an important public platform for the best in contemporary design through our exhibitions and events. With strong links to the design community, we are pleased to present a number of projects as part of the Design Festival and look forward to working with them over the upcoming year to create new opportunities to bring design in all its manifestations to the heart of London and to a new audience.”

Robin Day working on the Q-stak Chair (1953) Robin Day designed this one-piece moulded plywood chair with economy in mind. Credit: The Robin and Lucienne Day Foundation

Robin Day working on the Q-stak Chair (1953)
Robin Day designed this one-piece moulded plywood chair with economy in mind.
Credit: The Robin and Lucienne Day Foundation

The V&A Museum is another centre during the Festival and here you will discover a ‘forest’ of timber columns, designed by Turner Prize nominees Assemble, which celebrates the centenary of the birth of the designer Robin Day. This installation Robin Day Works in Wood looks at Day’s early years in High Wycombe, a centre of furniture making set among beech woodlands and highlights his relationship with wood and his use of it through various processes.

 Zotem by Kim Thome with Swarovski. Image by Mark Cocksedge

Zotem by Kim Thome with Swarovski.
Image by Mark Cocksedge

You will also discover Zotem a double-sided monolith that rises 18 metres studded with 600 specially made Swarovski crystals designed by the London-based designer Kim Thomé.

Artona dining set by Afra and Tobia Scarpa The Moderns at Alfies

Artona dining set by Afra and Tobia Scarpa
The Moderns at Alfies

On September 24th Alfies Antique Market (NW8) are having a special day  consisting of talks, exhibitions, demonstrations and workshops celebrating iconic design through the ages (see their website for more details).

 

londondesignfestival.com

http://www.alfiesantiques.com

 

Three London Shows

Antony Donaldson – Of Memory and Oblivion, Mayor Gallery, 21 Cork Street, London W1, until 9th October 2015

Antony Donaldson 'Where the Light is Strong', 2014, acrylic on laser cut paper, 78 x 78 cm

Antony Donaldson
‘Where the Light is Strong’, 2014,
acrylic on laser cut paper, 78 x 78 cm

The artist was one of the first wave of the young British Pop artists and first came to prominence in 1962.  Throughout his career he has concentrated on the female body and this new show of works created since 2011 eloquently continues this theme.

 

http://www.mayorgallery.com

 

 

Varda Caivano, Victoria Miro Mayfair, 14 St. George Street, London W1, until 3rd October 2015

Varda Caivano Untitled, 2014-2015 Acrylic and charcoal on canvas 105 x 70 cm 41 3/8 x 27 1/2 in

Varda Caivano
Untitled, 2014-2015
Acrylic and charcoal on canvas
105 x 70 cm
41 3/8 x 27 1/2 in

This is an exhibition which will engross the viewer as they try to work out the wonderful, evocative swirling shapes found on canvas and paper which reflect the artist’s interest in the poetic litanies of George Perc.

 

www.victoria-miro.com

 

 

Joanna Kirk – New Work, Blain|Southern, 4 Hanover Square, London W1, until 3rd October 2015

Joanna Kirk, Throne, 2014, Image courtesy the artist and BlainSouthern

Joanna Kirk,
Throne, 2014,
Image courtesy the artist and BlainSouthern

Kirk’s new large-scale works combine painting and drawing through her use of pastel as the medium for these pieces.  Despite their large size they have a psychological element that focuses the viewer on the subject matter which includes our relationship with nature, the human condition among others.

 

www.blainsouthern.com

 

Jessica Carlisle in SW1

ANIMISM, Jessica Carlisle, 83 Kinnerton Street, London SW1, 15th-19th September 2015

NADEGE MERIAU Mises en Scene (The Hunter) 2005 Lambda c-print, walnut tray, no glass, Kappa mount 76 x 102 cm Edition 3 of 5 (3 editions left)

NADEGE MERIAU
Mises en Scene (The Hunter)
2005
Lambda c-print, walnut tray, no glass,
Kappa mount
76 x 102 cm
Edition 3 of 5 (3 editions left)

This show features four artists – Malene Hartmann Rasmussen, Rui Matsunaga, Nadege Meriau and Mimei Thompson – who suggest, through highly individual depictions, worlds where animals and plants have souls and that mountains, rivers and rocks have a “consciousness”.

 RUI MATSUNAGA Play Rabbit 2012 Oil and acrylic on board 9.5 x 15 cm

RUI MATSUNAGA
Play Rabbit
2012
Oil and acrylic on board
9.5 x 15 cm

It is of course a reflection of what some primitive peoples believe(d) and has an echo in our lives today as it reminds us of our association with nature and our environment.

Opening hours: 12pm – 6pm 

MIMEI THOMPSON Ape 2013 Oil on canvas 24 x 30 cm

MIMEI THOMPSON
Ape
2013
Oil on canvas
24 x 30 cm

http://www.jessicacarlisle.com