A Dagenham Designer

HARDY AMIES: A DAGENHAM DESIGNER, Valence House Museum, Becontree Avenue, Dagenham, RM8 3HT, until 25th February 2017

Queen Elizabeth (b.1926), photo Cecil Beaton (1904-80). Photograph. England, 1969. © Cecil Beaton/Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Queen Elizabeth (b.1926), photo Cecil Beaton (1904-80).
Photograph. England, 1969.
© Cecil Beaton/Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Although the renowned couturier and royal dressmaker  Sir (Edwin) Hardy Amies (1909-2003) was born just up the road from me in Maida Vale his story is being told, rightly so, in Dagenham where his father was the land agent acquiring land for the Becontree Estate in the 1920s and 30s. It was the largest public housing project of its time and was part of the Homes fit for Heroes national housing programme. Amies grew up there firstly at Gale Street Farm and then later at White House. The latter is being used to host some of the events related to the exhibition.

Hardy Amies with his father and sister outside Gale Street Farm, Dagenham, 1920. Image © LBBD Archive at Valence House

Hardy Amies with his father and sister outside Gale Street Farm, Dagenham, 1920.
Image © LBBD Archive at Valence House

It is being held in Valence House Museum, a place which merits a visit on its own accord as it tells the long and interesting history of the area. Amies skill is revealed through his work whether for Her Majesty the Queen, the high street store chain Hepworths or his designs for the film 2001: A Space Odyssey. He was also involved in the designs for the clothing of the 1966 English World Cup Team both off and on the pitch.

Barbara Goalen (1921-2002) and Hardy Amies (1909-2003), photo John French (1906-66). Photograph. London, UK, 1952. © John French / Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Barbara Goalen (1921-2002) and Hardy Amies (1909-2003), photo John French (1906-66).
Photograph. London, UK, 1952.
© John French / Victoria and Albert Museum, London

He was an astute business man and as he himself wrote in his book ‘Still Here’ My forte was tailored clothes”.  The exhibition has various examples of his designs on show including two that were worn by the Queen as well as clothes worn by Amies himself. While not a large-scale show it is one that I am very pleased to have seen.

Queen Elizabeth II Silver Jubilee outfit Hardy Amies, 1977 Image © Royal Collection Trust/All Rights Reserved

Queen Elizabeth II Silver Jubilee outfit
Hardy Amies, 1977
Image © Royal Collection Trust/All Rights Reserved

The exhibition has been co-curated by Create London and Valence House Museum, with dress historian and curator Amy de la Haye.

The White House Image © LBBD Archive at Valence House

The White House
Image © LBBD Archive at Valence House

Opening hours: Tuesday to Saturday 10am to 4pm (except public holidays)

 

www.lbbd.gov.uk/…/valence-house

http://createlondon.org/event/hardy-amies

Label from Hardy Amies’ own suit jacket, 1967 Image © LBBD Archive at Valence House

Label from Hardy Amies’ own suit jacket, 1967
Image © LBBD Archive at Valence House

A Celebration of Royal Style

Fashioning a Reign: 90 Years of Style from The Queen’s Wardrobe, Summer Opening of Buckingham Palace, until 2nd October 2016

A display of dresses from Fashioning a Reign: 90 Years of Style from The Queen's Wardrobe on display at Buckingham Palace. Royal Collection Trust /© Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2016.

A display of dresses from Fashioning a Reign: 90 Years of Style from The Queen’s Wardrobe on display at Buckingham Palace.
Royal Collection Trust /© Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2016.

This year visitors to Buckingham Palace are given an extra special treat with this exhibition. It is a wonderful way to mark The Queen’s 90th birthday and to celebrate her patronage of British fashion design from the replica of the original Christening gown worn since 1841 by succeeding members of the Royal Family to this year’s bright green outfit worn at Trooping the Colour.

Queen Elizabeth II standing in the White Drawing Room, Buckingham Palace. Official portrait by Cecil Beaton, 1968 Royal Collection Trust / (C) Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2016.

Queen Elizabeth II standing in the White Drawing Room, Buckingham Palace. Official portrait by Cecil Beaton, 1968
Royal Collection Trust / (C) Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2016.

It explores every aspect of The Queen’s official life, including the robes that she and Princess Margaret wore to their parents’ coronation, her wedding dress and Coronation gown as well as her military attire. The specially created dresses and outfits for State visits and overseas tours such as the stunning evening dress her Majesty wore to on her first state visit to Germany in 1965 and which was inspired by the rococo decoration at Schloss Bruhl reveal the care and attention that goes into the detail of such outfits each time.

A display of evening wear from Fashioning a Reign: 90 Years of Style from The Queen's Wardrobe on show at Buckingham Palace. Royal Collection Trust /© Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2016.

A display of evening wear from Fashioning a Reign: 90 Years of Style from The Queen’s Wardrobe on show at Buckingham Palace.
Royal Collection Trust /© Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2016.

Also one sees the outfits the Queen has worn for family occasions such as the wedding of Princess Anne, the Investiture of the Prince of Wales in 1969 and the celebrations of her various Jubilees.  It is a hugely colourful exhibition as so many of The Queen’s clothes are in bright, strong colours so that she is easily visible to all, especially in a crowd.  There is also the striking dress she wore in the James Bond sequence that was a highlight of the opening ceremony of the London Olympics in 2012. The corridor lined with examples of The Queen’s hats is rather a trip down memory lane as you will recognise many of them.  I must say that the song Ah, yes, I remember it well from Gigi came to mind.

Crystal and lace peach beaded cocktail dress by Angela Kelly. The dress and headpiece were worn by The Queen when she appeared in the opening ceremony of the London 2012 Olympics with James Bond. Royal Collection Trust /© Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2016.

Crystal and lace peach beaded cocktail dress by Angela Kelly. The dress and headpiece were worn by The Queen when she appeared in the opening ceremony of the London 2012 Olympics with James Bond.
Royal Collection Trust /© Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2016.

This display is a really happy, nostalgic and heart-warming experience that aptly reflects the life and reign of a very special lady indeed – our Queen!

A display of The Queen's hats from Fashioning a Reign: 90 Years of Style from The Queen's Wardrobe at Buckingham Palace. Royal Collection Trust /© Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2016.

A display of The Queen’s hats from Fashioning a Reign: 90 Years of Style from The Queen’s Wardrobe at Buckingham Palace.
Royal Collection Trust /© Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2016.

http://www.royalcollection.org.uk

A display of dresses on show at Fashioning a Reign: 90 Years of Style from The Queen's Wardrobe at the Summer Opening of Buckingham Palace, including Her Majesty's wedding dress by Sir Norman Hartnell, 1947 (far left) Royal Collection Trust /© Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2016.

A display of dresses on show at Fashioning a Reign: 90 Years of Style from The Queen’s Wardrobe at the Summer Opening of Buckingham Palace, including Her Majesty’s wedding dress by Sir Norman Hartnell, 1947 (far left)
Royal Collection Trust /© Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2016.

 

 

Please remember when purchasing a ticket that you can
Enjoy free re-admission for a year by asking us to treat your ticket purchase as a donation.
The income from your ticket contributes directly to The Royal Collection Trust, a registered charity.

Art16

Art16, Olympia, Hammersmith Road, London W14, 19th – 22nd May 2016

 

Photograph of the fair Courtesy ART16

Photograph of the fair
Courtesy ART16

This is a truly international event with some thirty countries represented through a hundred galleries and with more than a thousand artworks on display. A third of those galleries exhibiting come from the Asia Pacific region.

Yang-Tsung Fan Swimming Pool Series – Black swimming pool Acrylic on canvas 30 x 20 cm 2016 Courtesy AKI Gallery

Yang-Tsung Fan
Swimming Pool Series – Black swimming pool
Acrylic on canvas
30 x 20 cm
2016
Courtesy AKI Gallery

Jonathan Watkins (Director Ikon Gallery, Birmingham) is curating the Emerge section which highlights young galleries while the London First section brings together galleries that have never exhibited in a London art fair before. Visitors will also get a chance to “preview” a group of commissioned artworks by Tom Ellis which will be part of an exhibition at the Wallace Collection later this year.

Gresham Tapiwa Nyaude my ying is your yang 2015 Oil on canvas 82 x 133 cm Courtesy and © First Floor Gallery Harare

Gresham Tapiwa Nyaude
my ying is your yang
2015
Oil on canvas
82 x 133 cm
Courtesy and © First Floor Gallery Harare

 

Polly Morgan Mouthing the Words Taxidermy Rainbow Boa Granite, marble, copper, palmwood, perspex and lemonwood 420 x 220 mm Base 180 x 180mm Courtesy Other Criteria © Polly Morgan

Polly Morgan
Mouthing the Words
Taxidermy Rainbow Boa
Granite, marble, copper, palmwood, perspex and lemonwood
420 x 220 mm
Base 180 x 180mm
Courtesy Other Criteria
© Polly Morgan

 

RETNA Times of blue 2014 Acrylic ink on water colour paper 30 x 22 in Courtesy Coburn Projects © RETNA

RETNA
Times of blue
2014
Acrylic ink on water colour paper
30 x 22 in
Courtesy Coburn Projects
© RETNA

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Vincent Namatjira The Queen and Me 2016 Oil on linen 91 x 122 cm Courtesy THIS IS NO FANTASY + dianne tanzer gallery © The Artist

Vincent Namatjira
The Queen and Me
2016
Oil on linen
91 x 122 cm
Courtesy THIS IS NO FANTASY + dianne tanzer gallery © The Artist

 

Lauren McLaughlin We Don’t Want Emotional Complications 2016 Collage and pen on paper 35 x 25 cm Courtesy Arusha Gallery

Lauren McLaughlin
We Don’t Want Emotional Complications
2016
Collage and pen on paper
35 x 25 cm
Courtesy Arusha Gallery

 

Patrick Altes The Hanging Gardens of Babylon 2 2014 Mixed media on canvas 150 x 130 cm Courtesy Lahd Gallery © Lahd Gallery

Patrick Altes
The Hanging Gardens of Babylon 2
2014
Mixed media on canvas
150 x 130 cm
Courtesy Lahd Gallery
© Lahd Gallery

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Penny Byrne “Felled” Fehily Contemporary © The Artist

Penny Byrne
“Felled”
Fehily Contemporary
© The Artist

 

http://www.artfairslondon.com

Photography: Martin Parr, Paul Strand et al

Unseen City, Guildhall Art Gallery, London EC2, until 31st July 2016

TheDrapers' Livery 650thAnniversary, TheQueen visiting the Drapers' Livery Hall 2014. © Martin Parr / Magnum Photos

TheDrapers’ Livery 650thAnniversary, TheQueen visiting the Drapers’ Livery Hall 2014.
© Martin Parr / Magnum Photos

The noted Magnum photographer Martin Parr has been the photographer-in-residence for the City of London since 2013 and this engaging exhibition reveals both front of house and behind the scenes glimpses into City occasions and events.

Lord Mayor’s Show, Guildhall, City of London, 2014. © Martin Parr / Magnum Photos

Lord Mayor’s Show, Guildhall, City of London, 2014.
© Martin Parr / Magnum Photos

 

cityoflondon.gov.uk/martinparr

www.martinparr.com

 

 Strange and Familiar: Britain as Revealed by International Photographers, Barbican Art Gallery, Barbican Centre, Silk Street, London EC2, until 19th June 2016

Strange and Familiar: Britain as Revealed by International Photographers Curated by Martin Parr Installation View Barbican Art Gallery, London © Tristan Fewings/Getty Images

Strange and Familiar: Britain as Revealed by International Photographers
Curated by Martin Parr
Installation View
Barbican Art Gallery, London
© Tristan Fewings/Getty Images

Curated by Martin Parr, this exhibition features the work of some twenty-three international photographers dating from the 1930s onwards and provides fascinating glimpses into British life, be they social, cultural or political.  While some of the images were perhaps familiar to me the show is still worth seeing because it shows how much this country and life in it has changed over the decades and will be a revelation to generations younger than mine.

Strange and Familiar: Britain as Revealed by International Photographers Curated by Martin Parr Installation View Barbican Art Gallery, London © Tristan Fewings/Getty Images

Strange and Familiar: Britain as Revealed by International Photographers
Curated by Martin Parr
Installation View
Barbican Art Gallery, London
© Tristan Fewings/Getty Images

The photographers featured are: Tina Barney (USA), Gian Butturini (Italy), Henri Cartier-Bresson (France), Bruce Davidson (USA), Raymond Depardon (France), Rineke Dijkstra (The Netherlands), Jim Dow (USA), Hans Eijkelboom (The Netherlands), Robert Frank (Switzerland),Bruce Gilden (USA), Frank Habicht (Germany), Candida Höfer (Germany), Evelyn Hofer (Germany), Axel Hütte(Germany), Sergio Larrain (Chile), Shinro Ohtake (Japan),Akihiko Okamura (Japan), Cas Oorthuys (The Netherlands), Gilles Peress (France), Paul Strand (USA),Edith Tudor-Hart (Austria), Hans van der Meer (The Netherlands) and Garry Winogrand (USA).

 

www.barbican.org.uk/artgallery

 

Paul Strand: Photography and Film for the 20th Century, V&A Museum, Cromwell Road, London SW7 until 3rd July 2016

 

Installation view of Paul Strand at the V&A, 19 March - 3 July 2016 (c) Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Installation view of Paul Strand at the V&A, 19 March – 3 July 2016
(c) Victoria and Albert Museum, London

This rather special exhibition traces the life of this highly talented American photographer through photographic prints, films, notebooks, sketches and even his cameras.  Although primarily thought of as an American photographer this exhibition in the words of its curator Martin Barnes “challenges the popular perception of Strand as primarily a photographer of American places and people of the early 20th century” as he was in fact an international photographer as can be seen through images taken in Italy, France Romania and South Uist.

Installation view of Paul Strand at the V&A, 19 March - 3 July 2016 (c) Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Installation view of Paul Strand at the V&A, 19 March – 3 July 2016
(c) Victoria and Albert Museum, London

vam.ac.uk

Cartier I – Book Review

Cartier Royal: High Jewelry and Precious Objects
By Francois Chaille
ISBN: 9782080201942
ISBN-10: 2080201948
Publisher: Flammarion-Pere Castor

£80 / 95 Euros

Cartier%20Royal_cover

Few of us can fail to know quite how luminous some gemstones can be, especially when of great clarity and quality and this is certainly true of the jewels shown in this book celebrating the legendary jewellers Cartier.

Stages of production of the REINE MAKEDA necklace. Gérard Uféras © Cartier

Stages of production of the REINE MAKEDA necklace.
Gérard Uféras © Cartier

What a roll call of customers they have had and continue to have. Royalty, film stars and the wealthy adorn these pages but the real stars throughout are the gemstones and jewellery whether it be exceptional diamonds, sapphires, rubies, emeralds or pearls. Their design and settings reflect the genius and enduring quality of Cartier’s workshops. Long may they go on!

Flower brooch made for Queen Elizabeth II in 1953; resembling an edelweiss, it features the pink Williamson diamond in its centre. Archives Cartier © Cartier

Flower brooch made for Queen Elizabeth II in 1953; resembling an edelweiss, it features the pink Williamson diamond in its centre.
Archives Cartier © Cartier